Frequently Asked Questions

It seems there are always questions that need to be answered. We created this section to provide you with answers to some of the common queries in the custom clothing business. If you have other more specific questions please contact us.

Do all clothing manufacturers use measuring tools?

While the most progressive manufacturers, particularly those who utilize modern CAD systems for pattern creation and cutting, recognize and encourage measuring systems like Perkins Tailoring Instruments, there are Old-World tailoring houses that rely on old-fashioned traditional methods of measuring. For such Old-World tailoring houses three essential components of good measuring are a tape measure, a good eye, and a digital camera.

What’s the advantage of a measuring system?

There are many advantages to using a measuring system. Among them are a consistent method of taking measurements, a convenient method of communicating those measurements to your manufacturer, the opportunity for you and your manufacturer to quantify and deal in specifics numerical language, all means to an end result of better fit, fewer alterations and more profitability.

How do I choose a vendor for my tailored clothes?

First, consider what it is you want to be known for in the clothing business. Is it price? Do you want to be the low-end provider of custom clothing or hang your reputation on being the high-end leader? You will ultimately live or die by what your vendor delivers to you, and that you ultimately must deliver to your customer. Remember that all clothes are not created equal. Some are inherently better quality than others. Be sure that the clothes you sell and deliver measure up to what you want to be known for providing.

Consider your choice of styling options including the variety of details. This is a custom business and your clients will want to specify details. Does the vendor offer all you want to offer your clients? Do they make what you want to sell? Do they make the quality you want to be known for? Is their fit consistent and properly proportioned?

Are the order forms user-friendly? Are the people on the other end of the telephone supportive and courteous? Are you just another dealer or are you given the time you deserve?

Beyond styling options, model details, and quality construction, fabric selection plays a role in your choice of tailoring vendors. Do you want to rely on your vendor’s fabric selection or create your own selection from the array of fine fabric suppliers available today? It is often a matter of just how much control you want to have over your business and how much you want to leave in someone else’s hands.

Price, styling options, true quality construction, fit and fabric selections are all primary considerations. Lastly, but certainly not least, is what we call style. You must evaluate a maker based on the ability to create and deliver a true sense of style in their garments. Absent this essential ingredient, what are you really selling?

How do I choose a vendor to make my custom shirts?

There are a number of factors to consider in your choice of shirt vendors. Some factors are relatively black and white while others involve a more gut-level comfortableness. Among the criteria are imported vs. domestic. Domestically made shirts can often be delivered more quickly, while imported shirts may offer more styling options or intricate detailing. As long as you compare apples to apples, fabric to fabric, price is an important criteria on which to evaluate a shirt vendor. So also is fabric selection. Consider the total number of swatches available at any one time in the line, how often new swatches are added to update the line, as well as the variety in selection, price points, colorations and fabrications. Styling options and the availability to make what you and your customers want is another important consideration. Look at the details like the selection of monograms, monogram colors, as well as the swatch presentation. Will you be working from a showroom or traveling to see your customers? How portable are the swatch presentations? Are the order forms easy to fill out? Do you like the people you’ll be working with? Do they take the time to answer your questions and help you grow your business? Don’t let the cost of the cloth line deter you. A line worth carrying is worth investing in. Consider these options and invest wisely.

How do I choose a necktie and accessories supplier?

The choice of any good vendor or supplier must be made by rating a supplier based upon a number of criteria, with price being just one of many criteria. When it comes to neckties and accessories don’t fall victim to buying ties based on price alone. Instead, make sure that the quality of your neckties and accessories is in keeping with the overall quality of your tailored clothing, etc. Nothing ruins the look of great clothing like cheap accessories. Likewise, one of the easiest ways to ruin your reputation in the business is to sell accessories inconsistent with your tailored clothing. Evaluate quality based on superior fabrics, hand construction, dynamic colorations and elegant styling to name just a few. Request our white paper on quality neckwear.

Do I need labels for my clothing?

Besides excellent fit and great taste in style, there is nothing that will set your custom clothing apart like your own designer labels. There is nothing so sharp and professional looking as your very own label representing your business in all the products you sell and deliver. TAILORSOURCE has made clothing labels affordable. You really only need two sizes of labels; one small label that can be used for both neckties and custom shirts, and a clothing label specifically sized to look great inside your tailored suits, sport jackets, and topcoats. Just e-mail us your logo or artwork and we’ll get the ball rolling on your very own labels.

What measuring tools are available?

There are a number of measuring system on the market or under development today; Perkins Tailoring Instruments, Clothing Science, Sartorial Instruments & Technology, [TC]², as well as Try-On garments for retailers with stores, and the old fashioned tape measure. Some are manual instrument systems, some are computer technology driven, and others involve a combination of manual measurements and computer analysis and pattern creation. The most prevalent system today, used in conjunction with progressive clothing manufacturers is the Perkins Tailoring Instruments system.

While the most progressive manufacturers, particularly those who utilize modern CAD systems for pattern creation and cutting, recognize and encourage measuring systems like Perkins Tailoring Instruments, there are Old-World tailoring houses that rely on old-fashioned traditional methods of measuring. For such Old-World tailoring houses three essential components of good measuring are a tape measure, a good eye, and a digital camera.

There are many advantages to using a measuring system. Among them are a consistent method of taking measurements, a convenient method of communicating those measurements to your manufacturer, the opportunity for you and your manufacturer to quantify and deal in specifics numerical language, all means to an end result of better fit, fewer alterations and more profitability.

How do I measure for Made to Measure?

If you were to look at how various tailors go about measuring a customer for a MTM suit, you’d likely see different techniques for certain measurements. For example, some tailors measure the customer’s chest while standing in front of him, while others prefer to stand behind the customer. Neither way is incorrect, as long as there is attention given to ensuring that the tape is kept parallel to the floor, and is over the largest part of the customer’s chest and back.

Regardless of the technique used for the individual measurements, there are two commonly used methods for measuring a customer:

1. Taking body measurements, and
2. Using try-on garments to observe the required alterations.

It’s not uncommon to use both methods for the same customer.

Taking body measurements
In traditional custom tailoring, not often done today, a garment is made “from the ground up” for a specific customer, with a master tailor involved from the time the measurements are taken, right through the process of multiple fittings, to the delivery of the garment to the customer.

Today, the most common method is to take the customer’s body measurements using a tape measure (and in some cases additional tools for measuring posture), to determine what pattern sizes and alterations are required. The adjustments are then performed to the “master garment pattern”, from which the garment is then made.

With this method, however, taking good measurements is only half of the job. An expert must then review the body measurements and determine the amount of “ease” to add to arrive at the finished pattern measurements that would best fit the customer. Usually, this expertise is found at the factory receiving the order, and most of the decisions are made without any correspondence with the person who actually took the measurements.

Using try-on garments to determine sizes and alterations
The second way of measuring a customer for MTM is to have the customer try on a jacket in a size that matches his chest measurement, and note what alterations would need to be made. These alterations are written on the order form. The factory applies the alterations to their pattern for that model and size, and then makes a jacket from the revised pattern.

When using a try-on, you should look only for obvious faults in the fit. If the fault isn’t obvious, it probably means that the customer doesn’t really need the alteration. You shouldn’t be looking for the 1/8 of an inch that nobody will see when the customer decides to breathe again in front of the mirror.

This approach can’t always be used properly, since you won’t always have a try-on jacket in the right size. In that case you’ll have to use a different size or model and do the best you can. Also, some of the alterations needed might be so major that it’s hard to tell exactly how much adjustment is required.

So what’s the best method?
Both ways require some expertise, for instance to determine whether the customer has erect posture, and if so how much. Consequently, traditionally only those trained by an experienced person have been able to measure for MTM, regardless of the method. Today however there are computerized systems that will take body measurements and then determine what alterations from the stock pattern are needed, such as The Fitter™which incorporates all the expertise found on this site and much more.

If you don’t have such a system, the following is a good guideline to work by:

• If the customer appears to be a challenging fit, take as many body measurements as you can, and make note of obvious challenges in their posture. The factory should then be able to make decisions from that information that will result in a garment that will fit well.
• If the customer tells you that he normally doesn’t have too much trouble fitting off the rack, use a try-on garment, but be sure to take finished measurements for details like point to point, half waist, coat length and sleeve length, so that there is no question about the final measurement you want for the customer. You can take the finished measurements after the customer leaves if you are not comfortable doing it while he’s standing there.

Why is Made To Measure great for me and my customers?

Selling is selling! When you believe that you are doing something good for your customer, you present your product with more confidence, and sell more often. Here are some reasons why MTM is great for your customers.

1. Your customers get what they want. It’s very common for a customer to see a suit he likes on the rack, but the jacket is a 3 button when he wanted 2, or the pants have pleats when he wanted a plain front. Order him a MTM garment exactly how he wants it, and your customer will be happy he didn’t have to shop around to get what he wanted.
2. Increased selection means more chances to find what they like. It’s very unusual to have a customer sit down to select a fabric for a MTM garment and not be able to find something he wants to buy. This isn’t always true with ready-to-wear clothing, since you can only hang so much of it. Many of those people who are “just looking” and leave your store empty-handed would have purchased if they’d seen something they liked. With MTM, they almost always do see something they like, and of course, they’re happy with that.
3. Your customers will feel special. When they select a garment made expressly for them, it’s unlikely they’ll find it elsewhere (unless it’s a classic fabric of course). Most people like to feel unique.
4. Hard-to-fit customers get garments made to their dimensions, rather than ones altered to them. A customer who is hard to fit and has bought off the rack with alterations will notice the improvement.
5. Repeat purchases become much easier. Most (male) MTM customers usually want “another one the same as the last time”. An easy transaction for a busy person is a real time saver. Busy people like saving time.
6. Other people can shop for them. When you have a customer’s measurements on file, his spouse/partner can shop for him. And not just for birthdays or special occasions. Many busy men would much rather do away with the task of shopping for clothes, even if they actually enjoy wearing them. Many wives want their men to dress better too. With MTM measurements on file, shopping for him just got way easier.
7. 7. Make multiple sales faster. A man will pick three suit fabrics on a table much faster than he can try on three suits off the rack and have the alterations marked.